Alessandra Rich has always designed from instinct, but for Fall/Winter 2026–2027, that instinct turns inward. “Don’t you think as women we have to?” she mused during the preview, echoing Addison Rae’s fleeting mantra “not for life, just for tonight.” What sounds offhand is, in fact, methodology. This season unfolds as a private ritual: a woman alone in her bedroom, doors locked, trying on identity after identity in the mirror’s unforgiving light.

Memory took center stage at Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 2026 presentation, staged once again at the Park Avenue Armory. This was not the grand, hyper-theatrical Jacobs of recent seasons, but a designer in reflective dialogue with his own legacy. In accompanying notes, he described memory not as nostalgia but as an active force, one that shapes authorship, identity, and what endures. That meditation permeated the entire evening.

For Fall/Winter 2026–2027, Palomo once again dismantles the boundaries between masculinity and ornament, presenting a lookbook that revels in theatricality while sharpening its technical command. Alejandro Gómez Palomo has never shied away from excess, but this season the extravagance feels intentional, less costume and more couture proposition.

Jun Takahashi approaches Pre-Fall 2026 with characteristic intent, opening the season under Undercover’s enduring manifesto, We Make Noise Not Clothes. Yet this particular moment in the calendar calls for modulation rather than maximal disruption. Instead of runway theatrics, Takahashi distills his philosophy into a quieter, more disciplined wardrobe, one that tempers rebellion with precision and ideology with everyday wearability.