Featured: Schiaparelli Fall Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture fashion show at Paris Couture Week FW23.
Haute couture has historically been linked to astounding workmanship and a touch of strangeness. Under the artistic guidance of Daniel Roseberry, the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023–2024 collection fashion presentation perfectly captured this enchanted aura. With a range that merged fashion, art, and workmanship, Roseberry captured the audience by eschewing the customary techniques and norms and venturing into uncharted territory.
Daniel Roseberry emphasised his intention to produce a collection that radiated spontaneity, freedom, and a painterly feel in a pre-show interview. Roseberry aimed to shift attention away from the big-S Surrealist Schiaparelli-like gimmicks that had attracted notice and onto the collection itself while going deeper into the skills he wanted to highlight. The end result was a stunning exhibition of sculptural, asymmetrical forms made from black and white components, fusing together textile collages, jewellery, clothes, needlework, and more.
Roseberry drew ideas from Schiaparelli's extensive artistic legacy, paying particular attention to the house's partnerships with well-known artists. One particularly notable inspiration came from Lucian Freud's disorganised, paint-covered workshop, which resulted in the production of an amazing multicoloured "nude" outfit. This design embodied Freud's artistic anarchy with an uneven mosaic of paillettes that were painstakingly sewn onto chiffon.
Additionally, Roseberry discovered a vivid Yves Klein blue as a contrasting colour spectrum through her investigation of Schiaparelli's traditional gold embroidery. This striking blue appeared throughout the whole collection in the shape of coiled wooden jewellery, a scrolling pattern on a skate skirt, spray-painted body paint, and more.
Daniel Roseberry's choice to break away from the habit of extensively depending on trompe l'oeil body-part house codes was a sign of his creative development. Roseberry won the right to explore uncharted territory in haute couture thanks to his successful additions to the brand's jewellery and accessories. Roseberry added a new viewpoint to the Schiaparelli universe by embracing innovation and stretching the bounds of what is conceivable.
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