The Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu in France served as an unexpected but perfect site for Kenzo's Fall Winter 2024–2025 Menswear Collection unveiling, which took place amid a mesmerizing crossroads of culture, style, and history. This wonderful library, conveniently located on the same street as the Kenzo studio, provided more than just convenience; it was a symbolic backdrop to a collection that skillfully combined disparate cultural allusions. The man of Kenzo, Nigo, set out to create a fashion experience that was beyond national boundaries, bringing a new and unique viewpoint outside of the well-known cities of Tokyo and Paris.A collection that skillfully combined tradition with modern flair was introduced, all set against the backdrop of the reading room's rich cultural tapestry. The twist-stemmed floral motif was inspired by the Chinese and Egyptian pattern known as karakusa, while Nigo's interpretation of a tatami mat print resulted in a visually arresting check pattern. The result was a collection of clothing that suggested a voyage into unknown lands, from deconstructed denim workwear to shearling mittens.
Nigo started to use school uniforms as a point of reference; collarless blazers were covered with an institutional button chain with Kenzo designs. This homage to Pharrell Williams's Pont Neuf jacket and Nigo's college clothing combined in an interesting way, demonstrating the designer's ability to add original viewpoints to well-known looks. Tatami check jacquard weaving gave duffle coats, which were formerly worn as outerwear by seafarers, a modern twist and gave the collection a hint of the exotic.
Nigo has been the creative director of Kenzo's womenswear line since 2021. The brand has transitioned from unisex styles to a formal feminine appeal. Satami print dresses with sweetheart necklines and rib-knit minidresses with nipped hips were highlights of the collection. Bold and cutting-edge, chunky metal neckpieces gave these remarkable pieces a vibe akin to Mike Oldfield's "Tubular Bells" cover art.
Japanese protective gear served as inspiration for Nigo's investigation of padded chest pieces with straps, fusing high design with functionality. The audience was taken to a world of futuristic aesthetics, evoking memories of X-wing exploits and space exploration, when chest rigs were worn over black outerwear or tailoring. Furthermore, letterman coats with Kenzo logos showed off a tribute to multicultural influences while providing a modern spin on a traditional design.