Bach Mai Spring Summer 2025 collection fashion show at New York Fashion Week SS25
Many designers in New York have struggled with the general sense of pessimism this season, turning to fashion as a source of happiness and inspiration in the face of societal pressures, economic uncertainty, and the impending U.S. election. Like many of his contemporaries, Bach Mai was profoundly impacted by the gravity of these difficulties. He said, "This last year has been the hardest of my life," in the dressing room prior to his Spring/Summer 2025 performance. "Right now, it's harder than ever for aspiring designers."When faced with this gloom, Mai sought the brightness, bringing an exuberant palette of vibrant, cheery colours into his characteristic evening gowns and red carpet ensembles. Albert Camus's statement, "In the midst of winter, I found there was, within me, an invincible summer," served as his inspiration for the season.
The way that Mai used colour was practically a visual counterbalance to the negative. Inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragán and artist James Turrell, Mai created an evening collection that used vibrant colours such as vivid reds, oranges, pinks, and seafoam greens. He said, "I adore Barragán's profound use of colour, which is simultaneously bold and subtle." When used in conjunction with Mai's more basic designs, the vivid tones evoked optimism and vitality. A minty-fresh ensemble that oozed lightness included a gauzy white sleeveless top with a flowing back train combined with pale-green micro shorts. Other standout pieces were a strapless bodice gown with a cascading tulle skirt in red, pink, and purple.This season, Mai interpreted American elegance with a dash of mid-century haute couture and traditional Japanese Bijinga art in his hallmark gala-ready pieces. Among the standout items were the vibrant organza "jeans," which seemed like a novel take on red carpet style. Even with his imaginative vision, there were executional issues with some of the most ambitious cuts. His voluminous pleated skirts and deep-V dresses, for example, were ill-fitting at the bust, which took away from the collection's otherwise opulent satins, moirés, and failles. Some features, such as the leather gloves or the thick bands across the hips, were superfluous and occasionally detracted from the overall impression.
Even with these small flaws, Mai's maximalist style will undoubtedly appeal to his expanding star clientele. Stars like Amal Clooney have previously been seen wearing his designs, so it's not hard to envision these eye-catching pieces making an appearance on the red carpets of the Oscars or Emmys. There was no denying the energy and exuberance infused into the collection as each daring design came down the runway after the other. Bach Mai provided a much-needed splash of colour and optimism during a time when fashion is supposed to uplift the soul.
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