Rochas Spring Summer 2025 collection lookbook

by Editor - 00:00:00

Alessandro Vigilante carried on his research of the Rochas archives for his Spring Summer 2025 collection, taking special influence from founder Marcel Rochas' beachside vacations. Notably, in contrast to today's more carefree beachwear, the house's founder preserved his dapper elegance even during his relaxation. One year into his job at Rochas, Vigilante utilised this collection to further establish his identity inside the company by showcasing a sun-drenched homage to the sea and beach.

Rochas Spring Summer 2025 collection lookbook presented at Paris Fashion Week SS25.

Vigilante's collection, which was filmed at the Théâtre de Châtelet against the backdrop of a seaside cabana with sand, took the Rochas lady out of the boudoir-inspired starlets of his earlier ventures and into the real world. Referencing pictures of Marcel Rochas and his second wife, Italian artist Rina Rosselli, at the beach, he characterised the collection as a "mid-century wardrobe with boyish tailoring and casual craft."

Seaside themes throughout the collection, from shell forms to organic textures. Reimagined as "beach wear that's a bit boyish," a safari jacket kept the brand's typical flow and lightness. The 'R' logo was intermingled with fun beach ball designs on tulle tops, while the seaside vibe was literal with shorts adorned in a sandcastle brocade. Cloud-like designs, on the other hand, brought back memories, while look 17's creative use of a sponge-based substance provided sustainability and texture.

The colour scheme was classic seaside, with tones of coconut, yellow, blue, and turquoise adding appeal to all skin tones. The Rochas lady was defined by Vigilante as "a driven dreamer, but with feet on the ground," and this collection perfectly captured that idea by providing ease and elegance at the same time.

Vigilante is progressively moving the emphasis from the past to the future as Rochas gets closer to celebrating its 100th anniversary next year. The collection had a lot of vintage and nostalgic themes, but it was evident that the house will need to expand beyond its historical allusions and logo in order to be relevant in the twenty-first century.