Large leather aviator jackets, trench coats, and greatcoats were among the outerwear pieces that contributed texture and volume. The eyeglasses from Saint Laurent, which is recognisable, and the heavy gold bracelets that flashed from wrists were just as striking as the clothing. Every component embraced the done-up, glitzy aesthetic that is ingrained in the YSL lexicon, seeming purposeful and thoroughly realised. Vaccarello's choice to embrace richness and complexity felt daring, if not magical, in a world of fashion that frequently tends towards simplicity.
Vaccarello changed direction with a flash of lace and brocade as the collection moved towards evening wear. Rich tones of daffodil yellow, kingfisher blue, hot pink, and fuchsia made a dramatic expansion of the colour pallet. The swaggering attitude of the suiting was carried over into the narrow skirts, diaphanous blouses, and broad-shouldered jackets, demonstrating Vaccarello's skill in blending many styles and moods without sacrificing the collection's core elements.
Although these appearances might have appeared to be a divergence, Vaccarello's soft pyjama dressing earlier in the collection was consistent with them. A tribute to one of Saint Laurent's most recognisable muses, Loulou de la Falaise, was paid with long, belted tunics in damask fabric teamed with flowing trousers, all embellished with bangles and ropes of necklaces. Glistening and dreamy, gossamer dresses also honoured the time when Saint Laurent was socialising with prominent members of New York society, such as Andy Warhol and Nan Kempner. In fact, Warhol himself appeared on Vaccarello’s backstage moodboard, alongside photographs of the designer from that brilliant time.
Vaccarello has managed to preserve and advance Saint Laurent's legacy while paying homage to the brand's founder's aesthetic. In a season when many designers are playing it safe, the collection's sharpness and tailoring stood out, providing a breath of fresh air and a unique vision. From the careful craftsmanship to the vivid hues, this collection was definitely Saint Laurent—an expression of the brand’s power and singular character. Vaccarello has raised the standard for the remainder of Paris Fashion Week.