Alexis Mabille SS25: A 20-Year Celebration of Timeless Elegance
For Spring Summer 2025 Haute Couture, Alexis Mabille took a heartfelt and intimate approach, marking the beginning of his 20th-anniversary celebrations with a stunning lookbook in place of a traditional runway show. Instead of a grand spectacle, Mabille gathered a "chosen family" of muses—including Ellen von Unwerth, Marie-Agnès Gillot, Dita von Teese, Jordan Roth, and Tina Leung—each embodying the essence of his couture journey since his 2005 debut.
Rather than a lavish production, the designer hosted a warm dinner at Caviar Kaspia, where friends and longtime supporters toasted his two-decade legacy. “I didn’t want a big, expensive show,” Mabille reflected. “Just a moment with those who’ve been there from the start.” The evening’s intimate, glamorous energy set the perfect backdrop for a collection that beautifully merged nostalgia with modern refinement.The 35-look collection offered a curated retrospective of Mabille’s artistry, blending archival designs with contemporary reinterpretations tailored to the unique personality of each wearer. Standouts included a glacier blue quilted duchesse satin Disc coat, a floral-embroidered bustier dress with a tulle petticoat, and an ethereal summer “fur” crafted from gradient pleated and frayed organza. A violet crepe sheath cinched with a satin and lamé bow, alongside a velvet column dress adorned with crystal buttons, showcased Mabille’s signature blend of drama and effortless wearability.
Nods to his 2005 debut were woven throughout, such as a boutis-stitched black silk bolero paired with a leopard brocade bustier sheath, embellished with stone embroidery and tufts of white fur. Other designs reimagined classic silhouettes with a playful twist—smoking jackets were transformed into feathered minidresses, and voluminous petticoats combined elegance with cheeky transparency.
A striking midnight blue sheath dress, worn by Emma Wiklund, epitomized the timeless sophistication Mabille is known for. This collection—much like the celebration surrounding it—was a deeply personal reflection of his past, present, and future, proving that even after 20 years, Alexis Mabille remains a master of couture storytelling.
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