Ayissi sought to reconcile what he sees as two opposing forces in couture: stark, structure-focused designs and exuberantly decorative creations. “There is that moment between the neutral basis and when you start to transform things,” he explained. His collection dwelled in this liminal space, teasing embellishment directly from the fabrics rather than layering it on.Traditional African textiles served as the foundation for tailored pantsuits, day dresses, and fluid evening gowns, each adorned with fabric-manipulated details. A standout example was a sharp pantsuit fringed along every seam, transforming a tailored look into a dynamic statement piece.
In his ongoing exploration of the intersections between African and European couture traditions, Ayissi leaned into iconic Parisian couture archetypes. A suit with a cinched jacket and full skirt evoked Christian Dior’s “New Look,” while draped gowns with clever details—like a gold ring at the shoulder or a discreet side seam—paid homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s 1930s designs. These nods underscored Ayissi’s belief in honoring the masters of couture while innovating within their legacy.
The collection was grounded in Ayissi’s commitment to traditional African textiles, which he used to craft modern silhouettes with a cultural narrative. By shaping and embellishing these fabrics into couture-level designs, Ayissi showcased their adaptability and sophistication while honoring their heritage.Ayissi’s work emphasized the subtle artistry of construction. Gowns that appeared effortlessly draped revealed intricate tailoring upon closer inspection, highlighting the precision and skill behind the designs. “When you want to create an important dress, you have to create the base plan and follow through until decoration,” he remarked, underscoring the meticulous process behind his creations.By marrying structure with surface and blending cultural influences, Ayissi offered a thoughtful and elegant collection that celebrated the universality of couture. His ability to transform traditional fabrics into refined, modern garments reaffirmed his place as a designer who bridges heritage and innovation with grace and ingenuity.