Inspired by icons of French couture such as Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, Jacquemus imagined his brand through a 1950s lens. “I wanted to create something intimate, almost like a salon show—no distractions, just the silhouettes,” the designer shared. Guests, a select group of 40 including Pamela Anderson, K-pop star Hongjoong, and Carla Bruni, sipped champagne in a refined yet cozy environment, while vintage sculptures lent the space a whisper of modern glamour.
The collection embraced a couture-adjacent sensibility, reimagining Jacquemus’ playful geometry in sculptural forms. Opening the show, Christy Turlington donned a cinched black peacoat with a drop-waisted skirt, setting the tone for the refined silhouettes to come. Tabard tops, circle skirts, and hourglass dresses evoked Marilyn Monroe’s sultry curves, while pale yellows and sculptural cuts channeled Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief. Adriana Lima captivated in a daring black jersey “naked” dress, infusing sensuality into the collection’s elegance.
Menswear was equally compelling, blending tailored denim, workwear jackets, and preppy blazers with Americana-inspired undertones. The collection’s craftsmanship shone brightest in a feather dress created in collaboration with Chanel-owned Lemarié, showcasing Jacquemus’ deepening commitment to couture.
While the collection bore traces of influence from Schiaparelli, Alaïa, and Bottega Veneta, Jacquemus acknowledged the learning curve. “I have still a lot of work to do. This is just the beginning of my journey into couture,” he admitted backstage.
Celebrating his brand’s 15th anniversary, Jacquemus used La Croisière to cement his place on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, signaling his evolution from a disruptor to a designer with ambitions of heritage status.
The show’s understated intimacy and precision were a declaration of Jacquemus’ readiness to embrace couture’s intricacies, paving the way for his name to stand among the greats of French fashion. La Croisière was not just a collection—it was a pivotal moment in the brand’s trajectory, blending nostalgia with innovation in a uniquely Jacquemus way.