Staged at the Dutch ambassador’s residence, the show opened with La Reine Soleil (The Sun Queen), a dazzling tiered mermaid gown crafted from golden Thai silks that fanned out like celestial rays. The finale echoed this solar motif, featuring swirling sculptural forms meticulously shaped from rare fabric archives—an ode to van der Kemp’s ability to transform discarded materials into couture marvels.
His mastery of reinvention was evident in striking compositions: a black braided leather sweater exuded raw edge, while a checkerboard-patterned skirt repurposed from a Kuba wall hanging displayed an artisanal touch. An Ottoman silk jacket with folkloric embroidery outlined by dimensional “tusks” offered a nod to heritage craftsmanship, while a daring bustier—constructed from a boat flag and adorned with chains and charms—epitomized his signature fusion of storytelling and couture.
Beyond individual pieces, the collection’s true impact lay in its full ensembles. A slightly askew tuxedo exuded avant-garde elegance, while a Matisse-inspired gown composed of interwoven fabric strips showcased artistic abstraction. A black coat with voluminous smocked sleeves, intricately hand-embellished with 3,000 beads, paired with a sculptural visor, hinted at a futuristic vision born from historical elements.