Jason Wu presented his collection through a lookbook for Fall/Winter 2025-2026—an unexpected departure from his tradition of runway shows since 2006. This shift allowed Wu to focus on family time while reflecting on his past work, sparking a creative dialogue between his archives and the future of his brand. The resulting collection intertwined the artistry of his past with the boldness of his present, revealing a fresh perspective on design.

Central to the collection was a homage to Madame Grès, with a dress from Wu’s 2008 Fall collection serving as a key inspiration. The iconic piece was reimagined through a jacquard fabric, incorporating elements from its original design. Wu’s fascination with construction and deconstruction shone through in garments like the opening look—a red strapless dress with an asymmetric hem, featuring raw edges, exposed darts, and “mille-feuille seams” that demonstrated his impeccable craftsmanship. A wrinkled red satin gown, adorned with a print derived from a photograph of unfurling fabric, echoed the theme of transformation and rebirth.

This season, Wu moved away from the pursuit of idealized perfection, embracing a more relaxed approach. His designs exuded ease and comfort, exemplified by a mohair dress paired with a transparent drawstring blazer, revealing the garment's intricate construction. Darker, moody pieces—such as an all-black look with a “Tim Burton” mood and a glen-plaid coat with a striking circular hem—balanced the collection’s more ethereal evening wear, creating a dynamic contrast between gothic allure and understated elegance.

The collection also honored the fashion greats who shaped Wu’s vision. From the photo prints reminiscent of Jean Paul Gaultier to surrealist touches akin to Dalí’s iconic tear prints for Schiaparelli, the collection nodded to history while asserting its own identity. The finale gown—revealing an exposed back and horsehair petticoats—echoed the spirit of Vionnet, further exemplifying Wu’s skillful homage to the past while innovating for the future.

This collection, with its raw edges and deconstructed forms, speaks to the imperfections of life while celebrating the endless pursuit of beauty. Jason Wu’s FW25/26 collection is a testament to the quiet strength and confidence that defines his brand, offering designs that are at once timeless and modern, elegant and unrefined, beautiful in their imperfection.