For Fall/Winter 2025-2026,Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Week in signature style, unveiling a collection that masterfully intertwined heritage, equestrian influences, and contemporary refinement. Hosted at The Waldorf’s Palm Court, the setting was adorned with freehand horse sketches—an homage to Dressage, a defining collection from the late 1980s and early 1990s, and a nod to Costelloe’s childhood spent tending horses on his family farm in Dublin.

The collection exuded strength and sophistication, drawing on the bold, sculpted silhouettes of 1980s power dressing. Sharply tailored jackets cinched at the waist, broad-shouldered coats, and structured mini dresses paired with knee-high socks created a striking interplay of volume and movement, while maintaining an air of effortless femininity.

Luxury textiles played a pivotal role, with Irish tweed sourced from Magee of Ireland and Harris of Scotland, alongside rich silk, traditional Irish knitwear, and wool hosiery. The collection’s palette embraced autumnal opulence—deep greens, mustard yellows, berry reds, and warm browns, punctuated by striking black-and-white contrasts. Custom in-house prints added a contemporary vibrancy, infusing timeless tailoring with modern artistry.

Accessories leaned into the equestrian theme, featuring high-heeled boots, structured leather belts, gloves, and saddle bags that bridged tradition and modernity. Jewelry from P.K. Bijoux introduced subtle yet striking embellishments, enhancing the collection’s refined aesthetic.

Beauty looks balanced polish with restraint. The Toni&Guy session team, led by Cos Sakkas, crafted sleek ponytails and intricate micro-French braids with sculptural wrap detailing, evoking equestrian precision. Makeup remained minimal, channeling the understated allure of 1990s cool.

With this collection, Costelloe reaffirmed his mastery of craftsmanship, fusing heritage textures with a contemporary edge. The result? A commanding yet poetic tribute to equestrian elegance—one that speaks to the modern woman’s strength, confidence, and timeless style.