Marking its 11th collection, Pillings ピリングス returned to Tokyo Fashion Week with a deeply introspective Fall/Winter 2025-2026 runway show. Designer Ryota Murakami took the brand’s signature elements and reimagined them through a process of deconstruction and reassembly, offering a fresh perspective on Pillings' evolving aesthetic.

A standout transformation came in the reinterpretation of the double-structured skirt from the previous FW24 collection. Originally designed with an A-line silhouette, the piece was reworked into a balloon-shaped form, its hem structured for added volume. Crafted in crinkled satin, the fabric’s interplay of light and movement created a new visual language—one that emphasized texture, shape, and controlled chaos.

Murakami further explored the theme of "distorted emotions" through unconventional details. Knit sets featured exposed fabric pouches emerging from strategically placed zippers, while Nordic knitwear was intentionally designed to look as if the lining had been turned inside out—an embodiment of Pillings’ signature inside-out aesthetic.

Material experimentation was at the heart of the collection. Washed and aged textures played a pivotal role, with hand-knitted sweaters undergoing fulling (a felting process) to achieve a tactile, worn-in effect. The result? Knitwear with an intentionally uneven, dust-ball-like texture, evoking the passage of time and memory.

Even traditionally formal pieces, such as jackets and vests, were crafted from fulled materials, adding an element of aged sophistication to structured silhouettes. This fusion of soft imperfection and sculptural volume defined Pillings’ ongoing narrative—a brand that embraces both the beauty of wear and the power of reinvention.

With FW25, Pillings didn't just celebrate its past—it pushed forward, redefining its own classics with an approach that felt both familiar and entirely new.