Jonny Johansson’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for Acne Studios unfolded as a poetic exploration of human nature, drawing inspiration from Björk’s Human Behaviour and its dreamlike, fairytale visuals. At Paris Fashion Week, Johansson wove a narrative that merged urban sophistication with an unexpected rural charm, infusing the collection with a surrealist playfulness that blurred the lines between fantasy and reality.

The bear motif—a direct homage to the video’s central character—took center stage, manifesting through tactile mohair, plush Steiff-fabric coats, and dresses sculpted with exaggerated, articulated shoulders, evoking the softness of stuffed toys. Checkered tailoring injected a sense of nostalgia, while oversized felt boots peeked out from beneath ethereal chiffon dresses emblazoned with a bear monogram, reinforcing the collection’s whimsical yet subversive nature.

Textures played a defining role in Johansson’s vision. Boiled wool knits, supple boiled leather shirting, and PVC denim pieces were adorned with exaggerated bows, balancing rawness with femininity. Delicate spotted chiffon dresses in soft pastels, accented with hairpin ribbons, channeled an almost athletic elegance, while Nordic-inspired knits reimagined as scarf-sash hybrids underscored the collection’s tactile experimentation.

Accessories extended the narrative, with thigh-high leather boots featuring ostrich-pattern puckering and oversized photographer’s bags draped in faux fur attachments, adding an eclectic yet wearable edge. The show’s set—juxtaposing sharp skyscraper silhouettes with tapestry-covered river stones—symbolized the dialogue between modernity and nature, mirroring the collection’s fluid tension between structured citywear and whimsical storytelling.

Johansson delivered a collection that felt both conceptual and covetable, transforming artistic inspiration into a series of garments that seamlessly balanced fantasy with functionality. In a season where fashion continues to embrace the unexpected, Acne Studios FW25 stood as a testament to the brand’s fearless pursuit of the avant-garde.