As the grand finale of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel’s Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection unfolded against a backdrop of change, anticipation, and an air of transition. With the house poised for a new creative era under Matthieu Blazy, the collection—crafted by the in-house team—was less about reinvention and more about maintaining continuity, wrapped quite literally in a thematic ode to ribbons.

A monumental black ribbon installation set the stage, underscoring the motif that wove its way through the collection. Matte satin ribbons traced the sharp lines of military-inspired tweed jackets, while sheer organza tunics bloomed with bow-secured balloon sleeves. Delicate ribbon prints adorned dresses, and pearl-edged bow cutouts brought a touch of whimsy to sweaters and skirts. While elegant, the execution remained expected, leaving room for something more daring.

Where the collection found intrigue was in its play on proportion, scale, and optical illusion. Illusion tulle overlays created ghostly silhouettes atop classic tweed suits, transforming a prim pink jacket and shorts into a surrealist vision beneath a sheer skirt. All-over layered looks pushed fabric manipulation to new heights, culminating in a striking cherry-red tweed ensemble—jacket, skirt, pants, boater hat, gloves, handbag, and boots—wrapped in a singular statement of excess.

Nods to Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy surfaced in playful visual gags: a miniature egg-sized minaudière, crossbody pearl necklaces the size of a hand, and oversized pearls doubling as boot heels. But where Lagerfeld balanced audacity with allure, certain elements—oversized Pierrot smocks and baggy sweater dresses—veered into dowdy territory, lacking the sensuality defining the season’s leading collections.

More than a collection, this show felt like a bridge—a transitional moment poised between the comfort of familiarity and the thrill of reinvention. Chanel’s faithful clientele found solace in the ever-chic twinsets and heritage codes, yet the absence of an external creative force was palpable. The true anticipation lingered in what comes next: the dawn of the Blazy era, where the Chanel woman may once again be redefined with a sharper, more unexpected edge.