Chemena Kamali’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for Chloé at Paris Fashion Week was a poetic study of femininity, anchored in the delicate yet powerful language of the blouse. A self-proclaimed blouse aficionado, Kamali explored this quintessential Chloé staple as a marker of shifting societal tides, reimagining it with exaggerated silhouettes, dramatic sleeve volumes, and assertive yoke placements.

The collection unfolded in a dreamlike tableau of ivory and peach silk, where sculptural blouses with commanding shoulders and assertive cuffs transcended their traditional role, assuming the authority of tailored jackets. Ethereal lace dresses, their frothy peplums adding a sense of movement, exuded an effortless grace that felt both nostalgic and modern. Kamali’s set design—a vast expanse of pale green carpeting flanked by raw plywood seating—subtly signaled a shift in her creative approach. While her previous collections leaned heavily into archival references, this season felt more instinctive, channeling the house’s DNA without overtly citing its past.

Hints of the late 1970s and early 1980s coursed through the collection, from Victorian-inflected heirloom jackets paired with plunging henley knits and fluid chiffon skirts to quilted outerwear trimmed in plush tubular fur. Accessories, however, teetered on excess—gold chains, logo-emblazoned belts, charm-laden handbags, and whimsical fur pompoms adorned many looks, occasionally obscuring the quiet sophistication of Kamali’s vision.

The designer’s connection to Chloé’s romantic spirit is undeniable, but as she continues to refine her narrative, there is an anticipation for a stronger infusion of her personal design lexicon. With the blouse as her canvas, Kamali has the potential to redefine contemporary femininity through Chloé’s storied lens, balancing reverence for the past with an evolving modernity.