For Fall Winter 2025-2026, Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent unfolded like a love letter to the house’s golden era—imbued with raw emotion, stripped of excess, and distilled to its most powerful essence. Inspired by a fleeting video of model Amalia Vairelli describing Saint Laurent as "love," the collection sought to capture not just aesthetics but feeling—an unspoken connection between fabric, form, and the wearer.

Eschewing ornamentation and overt embellishment, Vaccarello focused on silhouette and movement, allowing cut and color to take center stage. A striking palette—fuchsia, coral, amethyst, ochre, emerald, and terracotta—infused the collection with an unprecedented vibrancy, marking one of his most chromatically daring statements to date. Washed satin and technical jersey lent fluidity, while structured outerwear maintained the brand’s signature precision.

Echoing the refined minimalism of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1990s haute couture era, the collection sculpted an inverted triangle silhouette—strong shoulders tapering into sleek, elongated lines. High-collared coats exuded quiet authority, while lace sack dresses and bow-backed blouses paired with narrow skirts channeled an effortless sophistication. Leather blousons introduced a contemporary edge, seamlessly integrated into the maison’s timeless vocabulary.

For evening, billowing ball skirts met delicate silk camisoles and unexpected pairings like lace eveningwear with aviator jackets—replacing Saint Laurent’s signature noir with earthy, sun-kissed tones. Accessories were pared back yet striking: leather gauntlets, sculpted gold earrings, and curved-heel slingbacks reinforced the collection’s sense of sculptural refinement. Notably absent were handbags, a bold decision that underscored Vaccarello’s commitment to creative purity over commercialism.

More than a collection, FW25/26 was a meditation on emotion, an exploration of the intangible magic that defines Saint Laurent. With whispers of haute couture on the horizon, Vaccarello delivered a vision that honored the past while stepping decisively toward the future—where fashion is not just seen, but felt.