For Fall Winter 2025-2026, Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki of Ujoh delved into the quiet defiance of their school days in the ’90s, where students bent uniform rules in pursuit of individuality. This nostalgic introspection informed a collection that balanced precision tailoring with deconstructed nuances, pushing the brand’s signature asymmetric and layered aesthetic into fresh territory.

Suiting—a cornerstone of Ujoh’s identity—emerged in wool gabardine and brushed flannel twill, lending both structure and softness to the silhouettes. Cropped tab-fronted jackets in uniform shades of brown, gray, and navy were subverted by layered half-skirts and short pants, occasionally punctuated with electrifying hints of lime and sky blue. Hybrid collars fused classic suiting with sailor-style necklines, while elongated sleeve-like ties added an air of nonchalance. Oversized rugby sweaters and pleated mid-length skirts reinforced the collection’s nod to youthful defiance.

Tactile experimentation deepened the narrative. Legwarmers slouched effortlessly over shoes, quilted winter jackets were reimagined as glossy, blanket-like skirts in recycled polyamide, and the collection’s sole print—a delicate black floral embroidery on a bias-cut white skirt—evoked the tulip bulbs gifted to Japanese schoolchildren as a lesson in patience and care. Handwoven jacquards with interlaced ribbons and frayed threads recalled the casual layering of a faux-fur coat thrown over an exposed blue shirt sleeve. A black shearling aviator jacket, cut open at the shoulders, encapsulated Ujoh’s knack for outerwear with an edge.

The show concluded on a note of studied ease, as models gathered on vintage classroom chairs at the runway’s center, exchanging laughter in a moment of spontaneous camaraderie. By revisiting the subtle acts of rebellion that define youth, Ujoh reinforced its mastery of reinvention—this season, with a knowing glance to the past