Aluf FW25/26: The Grand Balancing Act
At São Paulo Fashion Week N57, designer Ana Luisa Fernandes of Aluf unveiled her Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection, transforming a large, repurposed fabric tent in Bom Retiro into a stage of refined theatricality. Drawing an evocative parallel between the circus tent and the turbulent world of Brazilian fashion, Fernandes likened a stylist’s journey to a tightrope walk—balancing the applause of the runway with the backstage contortions of the industry.
The collection, aptly themed “Malabares” (Juggling), plays with contrasts in both form and texture. Wide stripes elegantly adorn a skirt with an extended train, while playful pom-poms add touches of whimsy throughout the looks. With subtle nods to the 1980s, a cocoon-like dress featuring mini-ruffles and an oversized satin bow at the shoulder evoke vintage charm, while multi-layered ruffled necklines in a black midi set mimic the grandeur of theatrical drapery, finished with delicate white thread embroidery.
Precision tailoring and inventive construction define the silhouettes; defined waistlines—accentuated by peplums and panniers—combine with varied sleeve treatments, such as the bell sleeves on a fitted white coat, to create a harmonious interplay between structured refinement and playful spontaneity. The palette, grounded in low-saturation tones of wine, beige, and black, lends a quiet gravitas to the collection.
Innovative fabric choices further underscore the theme, as light chiffon and raw organza interweave with structured satin, jacquard, and biodegradable polyamide knits, forging a dialogue between softness and resilience. Accessories extend the narrative: headpieces crafted in collaboration with Matilda, circus ring-inspired bags by Nohma, and doll-like velvet shoes from Blue Bird all echo the show’s playful yet polished spirit. Even the vintage-inspired tickets and specially designed belts with Luisa Schröder’s buckle embellishments contribute to an overall aesthetic that is both meticulously intricate and effortlessly stylish.
Through “Malabares,” Aluf presents a sophisticated, cohesive vision that captures the rhythm of the circus and the art of balancing opposites—a tribute to endurance, creativity, and the perpetual dance of modern fashion.
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Source- Kendam |
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